Chapter 6 - The Summer Palace


On Saturday afternoon, we went to the northwest corner of the city to the
Summer Palace.  As we entered the main gate, it was very similar to the
Forbidden City with long paths passing through gates, but it was on a
smaller scale.  After we reached the final temple, we passed through a wall
and to our surprise we saw a large lake with gardens along the shore, and a
large house on a hill overlooking it all surrounded by elm, willow and
bamboo trees.  As we walked into a kind of garden paradise, we found
ourselv es on a long corridor about 6 feet wide.  It is a raised walkway
with a roof over it.  About every 10 feet there were posts on both sides
supporting the roof, and in between the posts above our heads there were
beautifully painted scenes (on the inside and outside) that told stories of
the different emperors.  This walkway was made of inlaid grey stone squares
and the posts were a forest green.  Every 100 or so feet it would open into
a round area about 3 times the width and it would have steps leading out to
t he grounds and houses.  In this area the posts were sienna red (earth
red) and all along the walkway was a low fence with a top suitable for
sitting.  I read later that this walkway is 728 meters long and has about
14,000 paintings, and is the oldest art gallery in the country (and the
only one outside).

About halfway down the corridor we are in front of the large house on the
side of the hill.  At the water's edge there is a large pavillion where
boats come to dock and take on passengers.  These boats are like ferryboats
and give you a 20 minute ride around the lake stopping briefly at an island
in the center.  Some of the ferryboats have a dragon at the bow looming
over the water and daring anyone to come near.  It was a beautiful day and
the ride gave us a beautiful view of the entire area.  Nearby a smaller
pavillion has paddle boats for people to rent so everyone can enjoy the
water.

When we came out of the boat, we crossed the long corridor and began an
incredible walk through all kinds of hillside residences and pathways.  It
was surprising to see large pieces of coral placed thoughout this garden
area.  Some were 10-15 feet tall and didn't really seem to fit the
location.  I read later that all the buildings and some of the open places
had special names like The Hall of Benevolence and Longevity, The Hall of
Jade Ripples, The House of Longevity, The Hall of Spreading Benevolence,
and th e Gardens of Virtuous Harmony.  For the number of visitors it must
have, the gardens are very well kept.  The guide book says that the design
of the building date back about 3000 years ago, but most of it was built
since 1750 when the Garden of Clear Ripples was built.  It was regarded as
the masterpiece of China's imperial gardens.  It took 15 years to build and
was under the direct supervision of Emperor Qian Long.  It consisted of
more than 300 pavilions, terraces, halls, and verandas, and formed more
than 10 0 famous scenic spots to stop and enjoy.  Most of them are still
enjoyed today by the visitors.

Temple to Heaven

The Temple to Heaven

After a good dinner and a good night's rest, we started out on Sunday to
see the Temple to Heaven.  A Taxi dropped us off at one of the entrances
and we began walking through a beautiful garden.  There was a "street" down
the middle and shaded walkways on each side.  It was a quiet and peaceful
surrounding even though there were many people there.  Off to the sides of
the walk were occasional gardens of flowers, and one of them displayed the
Chinese roses in full bloom.  It was a long walk to the Temple area and the
"boardwalk" of stone that joined the two round temples.

First we walked to the outside temples on the west side.  They were
constructed of a circle and the people enjoyed the peculiar sound
properties of standing near the wall on one side and hearing the voice of
someone on the opposite side maybe 100 yards away (and blocked by
buildings) as though they were standing next to you.  There were different
levels and pathways at the outside temple for people and maybe animals to
come to the center.  The long walk down the boardwalk brought us to a large
temple building where the people petitioned for good crops and good
harvest.  Inside there were stone statues of cows and their provisions
arranged in a kind of ceremony around the center.